Treviso - Italy
Treviso is an attractive town in the Veneto region of north-east Italy, with a population of around 80,000. From a tourist point of view, it suffers from its proximity to glamorous Venice: Treviso's meandering waterways and tranquil atmosphere just can't compete with the overwhelming charms of its neighbour. In its own right, though, Treviso is a pleasant town with several attractions worthy of a day trip. It also makes a good base for exploring the area (including Venice), or for enjoying a quiet Italian break. Rebuilt and restored after Second World War bombing, the town centre is a rambling maze of streets lined with arcaded walkways. Looking up, you'll see fragments of the painted frescoes which once decorated Treviso's houses. The town is circled by a town wall and by waterways. Treviso markets itself as a città d'acque and although it can hardly compare with its lagoon neighbour, water is an important feature of the townscape. The river Sile runs to the south of the centre, and canals carry water around the town, lined with houses or grassy banks, weeping willows, waterwheels and little parks. The town's defensive walls, moat and imposing gateways are still impressive sights. One of Treviso's other notable features is its comfortable air of prosperity. The town is home to the clothing empire Benetton, which has a large store behind the Palazzo dei Trecento in the town centre. Unlike Venice, this town doesn't depend on tourism - you won't find tacky tourist shops, silly hats or bullying tour guides, just a well-off Italian town going about its daily business. The centre of Treviso is only 5-10 minutes on foot from the railway station. The main Treviso museum is the Museo di Santa Caterina, a former church and convent which has recently been restructured to house the Civic Museum, the town's art gallery and archaeological collection. Cloisters inside the entrance lead through to the church, decorated with lovely patches of fresco which have been restored to vivid colour. Tomaso da Modena's renowned St. Ursula frescoes are displayed in the centre of the church (restoration work on these will be under way until 2009, but most could still be admired when we visited). The Chiesa di San Francesco is a cool high brick structure with a massive ship's keel roof. The decorative highlights are some faded medieval frescoes. In a chapel off the transept to the left of the main altar is a fresco by Tomaso da Modena of an enthroned Madonna with attendant saints - some of the colour has been lost but his faces retain their sweetness. The work is echoed less convincingly by another artist in the end chapel. In the opposite corner of town lies the strikingly-elongated Chiesa di San Nicolò, a fine example of Italian Gothic architecture which looks as though it has been stretched upwards to the heavens. Treviso is a pleasant place to wander, and it's well-provided with enticing bars, cafés and restaurants for sampling the local cuisine and sparkling Prosecco. If you want a quiet getaway for a romantic weekend, Treviso is a practical destination with the added possibility of a day trip to Venice.
